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Support for just £10 - takes just a minute. If you can, please support us with a regular amount every month. Thank you. Canadian Arctic Operations Consultants measure decades-old plane wreckage in temperatures below -50C. They are exploring Resolute Bay on Cornwallis Island, Nunavut, Canada. Photo: Louie Palu/Zuma Press
American, Russian, Canadian and Chinese forces are taking an active role in the Arctic region, but the real danger is the rapidly changing climate.
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Arctic sea ice reached its second-lowest extent this month, and modeling suggests it will melt completely by the summer of 2035. But where many see disaster, some world powers see an opportunity to secure geopolitical and commercial — and military — interests.
The UK, US and Canada are among the countries stepping up military exercises in the Arctic, and photographer and filmmaker Louie Palu has spent the past five years capturing images of soldiers facing an environment as hostile and deadly as any enemy. Compulsion. He has photographed parachuting in mountainous terrain in Alaska, drilling through lake ice in the Northwest Territories, submerging under the ice in the Beaufort Sea, and building ice houses and radar operations in Nunavut. During exercises in Finland, he saw soldiers frostbite and even die in traffic accidents, he said.
Canadian pilots and aircrew after a week of Arctic survival training for military personnel from Canada, the United Kingdom and France at the Canadian Forces Training Center Crystal City near Resolute Bay in Nunavut, Canada. These soldiers are being transported back to heated facilities in a tracked vehicle after spending a week outdoors in temporary shelters in temperatures below -50C. Photo: Louie Palu/Zuma Press
"Every photograph has some kind of failure, disaster or absurdity," Palu said. “I broke my ribs twice. I scratched my cornea with ice. The only time I've seen soldiers more scared than going out in -60 degrees Celsius was in Afghanistan when you're walking around after an IED.
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The Arctic has always been a kind of blank slate, a place so desolate and vast that it invited people to put their greatest dreams and fears into it. As the famous chronicler of the Far North, Barry Lopez, wrote, "the desires and aspirations of the people were as much a part of the land as the wind, the solitary animals, and the bright stone fields and tundra."
US soldiers train to ski from bases in Alaska while attending a course on snowshoeing, survival and cold weather logistics. They are located south of the Arctic Circle at the Northern Warfare Training Center, a US Army facility in Black Rapids, Alaska. Part of their training is based on Finland's winter war against the Soviet Union in 1939. Photo: Louie Palu/Zuma Press
For 16th century explorers, it was a possible trade route to the East. For the whalers of the 17th century, it was bait made of bowstrings and walrus tusks. For Cold War defense planners, this was the shortest flight path for ballistic missiles.
After the collapse of the Soviet Union, the Arctic was largely forgotten until 2007, when a titanic submarine planted the Russian flag at the North Pole to underscore Moscow's claim to economic rights over a wide swath of seabed there, prompting angry reactions from Washington and Ottawa. Denmark and Canada have since filed their own overlapping claims to the seabed.
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"Imagination and the unknown are two themes that all bottlenecks relate to," Palu said. "It's about the unknown future of the planet due to climate change and the opening up of a part of the world that nobody was interested in before."
The Fox-Main Long Range Radar Site, also known as Site 30, is part of the Northern Warning System. This complex replaced the Distant Early Warning Line launched in 1954 to detect possible Russian missile and bombing attacks. This facility is located in the Nunavut community of Hall Beach and is jointly operated by the United States and Canada. Photo: Louie Palu/Zuma Press
But the warming of the Arctic has driven resource extraction more than concern for the environment. Shipping on the Northern Sea Route along Russia's Arctic coast, which Vladimir Putin hopes will be an alternative to the Suez Canal, is expected to reach 32 million tonnes this year, 80% of which comes from the vast fields of the Yamal Peninsula. State-owned oil giant Rosneft is drilling the world's northernmost oil well and reportedly developing the world's largest onshore oil project.
On the US side, the Trump administration has promised to sell drilling leases in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge by the end of the year. And he overturned an Obama-era decision that would have canceled a planned gravel mine, setting the stage for a gold and copper project that environmentalists say will harm the world's largest salmon fishery.
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Canadian soldier Bomber Commander Jonathan Caron Corriveau holds survival candles that will be his only source of heat in the ice shack he built during an Arctic operations advisory course. Soldiers learn from Inuit instructors how to build and sleep in temporary survival shelters at the Crystal City training area near Resolute Bay, where wind chills often reach -50 degrees. Photo: Louie Palu/Zuma Press
As northern economic interests grew, so did military patrols to test or protect territorial borders. After US Secretary of State Mike Pompeo declared in 2019 that "America's moment is now to stand up as an Arctic nation", the US deployed destroyers off Russia's northern coast in May - the first since the 1980s. In July, the Air Force released its Arctic deployment
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